Both kojic acid and azelaic acid are effective for hyperpigmentation, but they work in different ways and have varying strengths.
Kojic acid is a natural derivative of mushrooms that inhibits the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. It is known for its potent lightening effect and is often used to treat melasma, sunspots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. However, kojic acid can be irritating and photosensitive, meaning it increases sensitivity to sunlight.
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. It works by blocking the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin production. It also reduces inflammation, making it suitable for treating acne-related hyperpigmentation. Azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated and less likely to cause irritation than kojic acid.
Ultimately, the best choice depends on your individual skin type and concerns.
- For sensitive skin or those prone to irritation: Azelaic acid is usually a better option.
- For stubborn hyperpigmentation: Kojic acid may be more effective, but use it cautiously and with proper sun protection.
It's important to consult with a dermatologist to determine the best treatment for your specific needs.